Looking down on the Colorado River from above Deer Creek.
The first Grand Canyon river trip slideshow I ever saw was in the dim smelly bowels of a small raft company warehouse. Soggy wetsuit booties hung on the walls, but we endured the malodorous setting because the images were so captivating. Our boss, dory boatman Steve Jones (aka Jonesy) was behind the projector, and I’ll never forget what he said: “Grand Canyon trips are all about the hiking.” Jonesy kept true to his proclamation and flipped through innumerable photos of places I’d never before imagined. Elves Chasm, Olo Canyon, Blacktail; suddenly I had a new agenda for my forthcoming first Grand Canyon trip—do every hike I could.
That was 25 years and a few dozen Canyon trips ago, but my approach to the greatest river trip in the world has changed very little: Survive the rapids, and do every hike.
Exploring Grand Canyon on Foot: A River Guide’s Top Hikes
North Canyon’s spectacularly carved walls give this hike a surreal feeling. | Photo: Dylan Silver
1) North Canyon (River Mile 20.5)
This is the first really classic hike done on most trips. The path follows the bed of North Canyon before tracing a cairned route across a rocky desert slope to bypass a pour-off in the dry creekbed. Once back on sidewalk smooth sandstone in the canyon bottom, hikers must negotiate a couple small scrambles before arriving at a gorgeous reflection pool. This is an obvious turn around point, but those who are overly stoked can swim the pool, and make their way another few hundred yards into the ever narrowing canyon.
Nankoweap may be one of the most iconic sites in Grand Canyon, and for good reason. | Photo: Josh Miller
2) Nankoweap (River Mile 53)
Perched roughly 700 feet above the river, the Nankoweap Granaries were built and used about 1,000 years ago by the Ancestral Puebloan people. These canyon dwellers farmed on the Nankoweap delta and used the four granaries to store and protect their food from the elements. The steep hike offers one of the most dramatic views of the Colorado River—one that never gets old no matter how many times you’ve seen it—and a tangible connection to the Indigenous people who once thrived in this remote canyon landscape.
Stone Creek’s small waterfall offers a cool oasis at the end of the hike. | Photo: Josh Miller
3) Stone Creek (River Mile 132)
Stone Creek is one of those Grand Canyon hikes that’s high reward with minimal effort. A short walk from the river leads through shallow pools into a lush box canyon where a graceful waterfall spills over the cliffs. The ferns, moss, and cool spray create a surprising oasis in the desert that’s much welcomed on a hot day. Hikers can also scramble farther upstream past additional cascades and hidden grottos for even more adventure.
The Surprise Valley Hike ends at Deer Creek Falls, a refreshing end to a long day. | Photo: Cari Morgan
4) Tapeats Creek to Deer Creek (River Mile 133-136)
This is a full day commitment, and untenable in hot weather, so the majority of rafting trips will blow past. That’s good if you are lucky enough to make this epic Grand Canyon hike, because you probably won’t see any other river runners until the end of the day at Deer Creek, which is where this point-to-point route finishes. The day begins along cold clear Tapeats Creek. By mid-day you’ll be at the surreal Thunder River Springs. Then it’s a slog through Surprise Valley, to be rewarded with the too-beautiful-for-words Deer Creek finish. It’s a journey, a voyage, an odyssey.
Squeezing through National Canyon’s narrow sections makes an unforgettable hike. | Photo: James Kaiser
5) National Canyon (River Mile 167)
A powerful 16,000 cfs flash flood roared through this side canyon in 2013 following a monsoon storm, but it’s back to being a worthy destination, featuring crystalline pools, towering cliff walls, and a special green tinged light that infuses the atmosphere as it reflects Muav Limestone alcoves. Hikers can scramble along short cliff ledges and take in the dramatic contrasts between the canyon’s narrow passages and the wide Colorado River below.